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THURSDAY 6th October 2005
FLORENCE
From the coach Dominic led us along the River Arno embankment, then through the city streets towards the church Santa Croce, stopping at the Information Centre for our maps of Florence. Before visiting the Uffizi Gallery we had time to look around the Piazza della Signoria to view the Palazzo Vechio (built between 1298 - 1314 and thought to have been designed by Arnolfi di Cambio) and to have a peep at its entrance courtyard. To the left of this entrance is a replica of Michelangelo’s “David”, and further along is the large Fountain of Neptune (1563-75) by Ammannati that celebrates Cosimo’s prowess as a naval commander.
Adjacent is the Loggia dei Lanzi (named after Cosimo I’s bodyguard of Swiss lancers, who used the Loggia as their rest room). In here is the statue by Benvenuto Cellini of “Perseus with the Head of Medusa”.
The Uffizi Gallery was not too crowded, and armed with our tickets (free for those over 65) we made our way for a few hours of concentrated painted art and sculpture viewing. From the South Gallery we had superb views across the River Arno and the Ponte Vechio.
After some lunch a short walk brought us to the Duomo or Cathedral (Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore - so called after the lily which is Florence’s heraldic emblem).This is a massive Gothic structure and is the fourth largest church in the world, after St. Peter’s in Rome, St. Paul’s in London and Milan Cathedral; the building is dressed in white marble from Carrara, green from Prato and pink from Maremma. It was begun in 1296 by Arnolfo di Cambio, continued by Francesco Talenti from 1357 and consecrated in 1436. The great octagonal dome was the master work of Filippo Brunelleschi (1420-34), with the lantern also by Brunelleschi, although he died before its completion in the late 1460’s. The gilded ball and cross were cast by Verrochio. The facade dates only from 1875-87. The frescoes in the vault of the dome were painted between 1571-74 by Vasari and his assistants, and between 1578-79 by Zuccari and his assistants, notably Passgnano.
The Campanile was begun in 1334 by Giotto, and after his death in 1337 continued by Pisano and Talenti, and finally completed in 1387.
The Baptistry is older than the Duomo with its structure dating back to the 5th century, but internal and external alterations made between the 11th and 13th centuries resulted in its present form. The dome, which is covered externally by an octagonal roof, rests on a small decorated cornice, and culminates in the lantern (c.1150). The mosaics in the dome vault were begun at the top by Fra’Jacopo, and continued by artists of the Venetian byzantine school - in Florence the tradition of mosaic work was fairly limited. “Christ in Judgement” would have been worked from a “cartoon” by the Tuscan artist Coppo di Marcovaldo. The mosaic decoration was well advanced in 1271 and it was still being worked on in 1300.
The Baptistry East Doors, named by Michelangelo as the “Gates of Paradise”, are the work of Lorenzo Ghiberti assisted by his sons, Tommaso and Vittorio, and by Michelozzo, Benozzo Gozzoli, Bernardo Cennini etc.
Ghiberti at 23 years old won the 1401 public competition for the North Door and started work in 1403, finishing it in 1424. He and his team then worked on the East Doors from 1425-52. He died in 1455 aged 77.
The three bronze Baptistry doors represent a piece of Florence’s artistic history, demonstrating the move from the Gothic style of the 13th and 14th centuries, to that of international Gothic, and later the Renaissance.
In chronological order: the South Doors (1330-36) are by Andrea Pisano illustrating the life of John the Baptist; the North Doors show scenes from the life of Christ and the East Doors show scenes from the Old Testament.
Before leaving Florence we made a stop at the Piazzale Michelangelo to take scenic views of Florence with the River Arno and with the Duomo.
To round off the day we enjoyed an evening meal at the Palazzo Casagrande en route back to Chianciano Terme. A large dining hall accommodated us all. Jackie spotted the courtyard with the topiary work.
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